Sur la piste du gecko...
Le blog ca n'existait pas il y a une dizaine d'annees ...Il y a eu depuis de nombreux voyages, mais a chaque fois une destination etait recurrente avec le meme refrain : "You can go East, you can go West, India is still the best". Ete 2008, me voici de nouveau sur la piste du gecko porte-bonheur dans le ventre de Mother India . C'est l'occasion d'ouvrir un blog... / Blogs didn't exist a dozen of years ago. Since then, I have done some trips, but every time one destination was recurrent, with the same refrain in my mind : " You can go East, you can go West, India is still the best." Summer 2008, again I am here, on the good luck gecko's track, inside the belly of Mother India. It was the occasion to open a travel blog...


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Trip in India, summer 2008(english version)
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En savoir sur le Yoga Ashtanga
Le Yoga Ashtanga, + de details, des photos

First days in Mysore, first impressions

Hi ! Sorry Guys, again time has passed since my last message. Maybe it’s better because the first impressions are not always the right ones.

So, finally I am in Mysore now, since last Wednesday.  I feel more comfortable now after some days . I knew already that it could take time to get used and familiar with a new place.Some people can be very useful and know how to become quickly necessary to you.  Ganesh ( who booked the taxi for me) is one of those persons. The taxi was there, right on time at the new airport of Bangalore (my God!, it’s amazing to see such an airport in this country! Are we still in India?).  I was a bit worried because I didn’t know where I would sleep in Mysore, but Ganesh had already found a room for me when I arrived to his café . He told me to check it and to take if I liked it. In half am hour the deal was done ( I didn’t want to look for this all the day, as I was tired from the trip and the detox).

So, I stay in a family house, like most of the students here. You have to register for at least  1 month at the AYRI ( Ashtanga Yoga Research Institute of Pattabhi Jois ; sorry to be so precise for those who are already familiar with Ashtanga and Mysore, but some of you don’t know so much about it maybe) and it’s  better and easier  to choose this alternative. It seems that there are plenty of rooms to rent all the time and it was no need to be worried . It’s 10 mn on foot from the  Shala ( the yoga studio), in this quiet, green and residential area named Gokulam. Another student, Hayley rent the other room. It’s quiet comfortable ( I have a terrace ). The hostess is just a bit curious about what I am doing, cooking, where I am going, asking questions all the time. It bothered me at first, but now I get used to be treated as a child for a while.  I think, she ‘s  just bored with her life maybe and very curious. As for her husband, he doesn’t care about me , except the first day, when he had to take the money for my rent.

After unpacking my luggage , I went for lunch at Ganesh and Anu’s café. The food is so good here ( I got addicted to it) : healthy, non fatty, various…(perfect with the good health of the yoga students that we are!). And those smoothies ! (frozen banana or mango mixed with yoghourt and nuts …(You were right Maya). Anu ( Ganesh’s wife) is giving cooking class by the way ; I booked for this Thursday !

After a nap, it was the time to go to ATM to take the money to register at the AYRI. The AYRI is one of these big and comfortable houses which stand in Gokulam. I saw the studio who seemed to be spacious, but not anymore the next day with more than 60 students. I am not going to give all the details I gave in the French version, but I can say that I have had a strange and uncomfortable feeling  as I was sitting in the office : Sharath( the grand son of Pattabhi Jois) who is running the Shala with the help of his mother Sarasvati , had an authoritarian voice and just a few words : “ Did you send you registration form already ? When ? How long you will stay ? 275000 roupies. Give it to me, I am going to check”. And then, I could here the sound of the machine checking the notes…In the same time I was looking at Pattabhi Jois who was there, blurred eye ( 93 years old now), wearing  gold rings and necklace and I was thinking  about all the students who are coming every day, register here, for  1 to 6 months…All this money,$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$...In their country, known for his poverty, do they help poor people  ? In fact, I learned that they do, a bit...

After paying, Sharath just said to me that I had to come the next morning at 8.00 am ( which is quiet late ; I am not used to practice so late)and that I would be the last student. I can say that I have been very hesitant before register.   I would have preferred to have a class with more attention ( I knew from Maya, that I shouldn’t expect to much from them) and adjustment, with explanation maybe. But as Maya  said, I shouldn’t miss the opportunity to learn there and to enjoy my time here. What I do, every day : I take all the positive aspects to be there.The practice starts at 4.30 am for some of the students and then it goes on until 9 or 9.30. Despite this, it was really crowded when I arrived at 8.00 am. As I didn’t know how it worked, I started to wait, sitting in the hall, with other students. From the door open, you can see students practicing : it's nice to look at them,  some are so flexible and light as they were flying in the air, moving on this "thread of air" due to their nice Ujjayi  breath...and in the same time you could hear the sharp voice of Sharath or Sarasvati, saying : "One more!!" which made me think : " How it would be to be at  the army?"( sorry Maya, I know you are very devoted and don' be mistaken on my irony sometimes, but I just want to give a touch of humor in this very serious practice which I fully respect by the way).  After half an hour, I asked myself how I should know when I had to go ( Sharath said that I would be the last, but the last of what ? Of the 8.00 am group or the last of all the students ?)Then,  I asked to the Japanese , beside me. He was at 8.30. Obviously, I had passed my turn and now I was late. So after the next  "One more!"( which is said when one student has finished his practice and leaves), I entered. It was so crowded : I had no place to extend my legs or arms as it is required on some postures, and so hot. I sweated  like never. Sarasvati adjusted me once  (better than nothing!). They didn't stop me ( normally in Ashtanga, the teacher must stop you when you don't do properly  one posture of the series. Until you don't do it well, he won't add another.) So, I stopped myself at Marichyasana C and did the closing sequence. Now I know which students are at 8.00am and I am not late anymore.

On Friday it was the led class ( you practice on the instructions and rhythm of the teacher). Two times for this : 4.30 or 6.00 am. I had to come at 6.00. Again it was crowded, even if I arrived 15 mn before. You enter in the shala already heated and wet by the sweat of the previous practitioners and then you have to be very quick to put your mat on the floor, believe me! In this class, you stop yourself when you can't go any further more, and wait for the closing sequence. Then you can look at the following postures of the series applied by more advanced students : some are very impressive, but  it's obvious also that it's tough for those who are still fighting with themselves...

After 5 days, I can say that it is very nice to practice in such an atmosphere, even if it is crowded and if you don't get so much adjustments. Students from all over the world, gathered in the same room, practicing with devotion : it brings a powerful energy and  another dimension to your practice, definitely.  I had a lot of aches the first 2 days ( because my  muscles were weak after the detox I guess). Now, just my knees keep on suffering. But it's the same for everybody there. I should eat ghee...

After this practice you don't do so much in the day. When you go out of the shala, it seems to be a tradition to drink a coconut. One coconut seller is there,  keeps on opening coconuts for  at least  4 hours I guess( from 6 to 10). Every student who goes out would take one for 10 roupies. This guy does good business : in the morning in front of the shala,  and then all the day, students go to his coconut stand...

Then it's time for breakfast at Om Café or Santosha.Then a nap or internet, and then lunch to Anu's. I met very nice people, I went already to Mysore Palace, to the Bird Sanctuary... I will tell more about all this later, I am tired now : I have spend more than 2 hours to write this!)

See you guys.  One last thing : I enjoy my time here, more and more every day.



Publié à 06:33, le 29/07/2008 dans Trip in India, summer 2008(english version), Mysore
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